First of all Istanbul has 17 Million people.
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| Istanbul and the Galata Tower |
Our research and expectations about Istanbul certainly didn’t reveal what we found on our arrival. We had expected a very cosmopolitan city, something that would live up to the fact Ataturk, the father of modern day Turkey had wanted the country to look west and modernize and set it on a course. It appears that course may now have been altered with the present government.
Roman emperor Constantine conquered the city in the 4th century and had it named after him. This stretch of land has been fought over in almost every war and became home to the Sultans of the Ottoman empire in their day as well during the 15th and 16th centuries. Constantine even shipped an Egyptian Obelisk from Luxor to the Hiipoodrome as part of his re-dedication of the city.
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Serdar Gürcan, Bahar Altun and US at Bandirma Ferry
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We arrived via ferry crossing the Sea of Marmara from Bandirma and arrived virtually in the Sultanahmet area of Istanbul. We did not have to drive all the way in from some other location which was great.
What we found is a fairly traditional Islamic city. We have likely seen more fully Burka’d women here in our short stay, than all the rest of Turkey in 3 weeks. Of course population concentration may have something to do with that as well.
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| Fully Burka'd Woman with her Raybans and Iphone 4 |
The call to prayer from all the Minorets can become overpowering and invasive. Like most other places in Turkey it is not the Imam doing the call to prayer, it is a recording dialled in remotely to the minoret and played over a loud speaker. Often times you can hear the phone keying in signal before and after the actual recording. So much for tradition.
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| Fortress of Europe |
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| Fortress of Asia |
Our Bosphorus tour was informative as it shows the development of Istanbul from early times mid 300’s through to today, from the Fortress of Asia and Fortress of Europe, both built during sultan times to control the Bosphorus to the influences of Genoa and Venice, and the 19th century buildings along the shore. Of particular interest was Dolmabahce Palace, which sits on the shore and is where Ataturk, the father of modern Turkey died. We decided to take the tour 2 hour loop instead of the 6 1/2 hr one. In 33C weather it was the wise decision. Of course we had to be in Istanbul during a heat wave.
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| Government Centre new meets old |
The Grand Bazaar was started in the 1500’s as a commercial centre, and was later followed by a Spice Bazaar a few blocks away. Both are very colourful and full of people trying to make a sale. We did go look again at carpet then came away with the realization that we weren’t going to entrust several thousands of dollars in a carpet to have shipped from Turkey to Canada. We did however bring back a smaller representation of their craftsmanship.
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| Spices Too |
The Blue mosque is very large, 2nd only I believe to the one in Mecca.
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| The Blue Mosque is large |
The ‘Islamic’ blue tiles display geometric patterns as it is against Islamic practices to represent the human form. As a result the building has a cold interior presence, much like a very large tiled football stadium. You are allowed to enter; for women with their heads and shoulders covered as well as their knees. For men, their knees need to be covered. They provided Velcro skirt wraps for both of us. Sorry no pictures allowed of them. Smithlamic practices we are required to adhere to.
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| Stained Glass and Tile Magnificent |
The Basilica cisterns were very interesting. I can’t remember which movie used them as a backdrop, possibly a James Bond movie, but they are really neat. They were only re-discovered in recent times when people would tell stories about fishing thru their basement floors and drawing water and fish from below. It was then uncovered. There are two Medusa’s faces submerged in the columns with no explanation as to how they got there.
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| Cisterns |
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| Sultans view of Bosphorus from Topkapi Palace |
Our visit to the Topkapi Palace, the home of various sultans during their rules was interesting. Again pictures were not allowed in any interior rooms. That did not seem to stop most Muslims including an Imam from doing whatever they pleased. It did have some artefacts from their prophet Mohammed. What was surprising for me is that both Jesus and Mohammed were considered prophets by the Muslims. For Christians we know of Jesus as a man of the people and of peace. Mohammed’s artefacts included a breast plate, jewelled daggers and several swords. These were instruments of war. Not exactly a man of peace from his worldly possessions and that may provide insight into why the Quran has fighting references in it. As well, the Muslim conduct around the palace and in particular in front of Mohammed’s artefacts was appalling. They did not show the respect I have come to expect in a holy place. They would push in front of you, separate Sandra and I and we were listening to an audio guide of the tour and then pull their family members in. This wasn’t some small butting in, this was quite rude given the sweaty nature of many of them and the fact it was 33C inside. I had to push several of them back on occasion and finally guards interceded to speak to the line pushers and relocate them. If one of them had been a pickpocket then the outcome would have been a lot worse.
Unfortunately in Istanbul there is litter everywhere. While strolling on the Galata bridge we watched a traditional Islamic mother and young boy about 10 take their plastic water bottles, .50cl size and set them on the railing then the boy hit them into the water and they both walked off laughing. Rather disturbing I would say. I looked over in disbelief to confirm what I thought I saw.
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